State quarters value
Almost all circulated 50 State Quarters (1999–2008) are worth face value. Value comes from known errors, such as the 2004-D Wisconsin extra leaf, uncirculated coins in top grades, and the 90% silver proof versions sold in collector sets.
Reviewed October 15, 2026
Key facts
| Program years | 1999–2008, followed by DC and US Territories quarters in 2009 |
|---|---|
| Circulation coins | Copper-nickel clad, worth face value |
| Silver proofs | 90% silver, sold only in silver proof sets |
| Mint mark location | Front, to the right of Washington's ponytail |
How to identify yours
- Read the mint mark: P, D or S (S coins came from proof sets).
- Look for an extra leaf on the corn stalk of 2004-D Wisconsin quarters.
- Look for doubled trees on 2005-P Minnesota quarters.
- Proofs have mirror-like fields and frosted designs; silver ones show no copper edge.
Which ones are worth more
- 2004-D Wisconsin extra leaf
- A die variety with an extra leaf, high or low, on the corn stalk.
- 2005-P Minnesota doubled die
- Doubling visible in the trees on the reverse.
- Silver proof quarters
- Worth at least their silver content, more in original packaging.
- Major mint errors
- Off-center strikes, wrong planchets and missing clad layers.
What most are worth
Circulated state quarters without errors are worth 25 cents.
Tips before you sell
- Check the Wisconsin and Minnesota quarters in any set.
- Keep proof sets in their original packaging.
- Ignore listings asking high prices for normal coins; check sold listings instead.
Why so many of these exist
The 50 State Quarters programme ran from 1999 to 2008, issuing five designs a year, and it was by a wide margin the most successful coin promotion in American history. Tens of millions of people collected them from change, filling folders and maps, and the Mint struck them in quantities that comfortably exceed any plausible collector demand.
That is the whole reason the answer disappoints so consistently. A programme designed to be collected by everyone produced coins that everyone collected, and the folders assembled at kitchen tables across the country are now being cleared out at the same time. Supply is enormous and the buyers are the same people trying to sell.
The exceptions are narrow and specific: a handful of catalogued die varieties, the silver proof versions issued only in collector sets, and coins certified in exceptionally high mint-state grades. None of those will be found in a folder filled from circulation, which is where almost all the quarters being asked about come from.
What condition means here
- Circulated
- Any state quarter pulled from change is worth twenty-five cents. There is no date, no state and no mint mark in the circulating series that changes this.
- Uncirculated from rolls
- Bright and unworn but handled in bulk. Worth a small premium at most, and in practice usually sold at face value because supply vastly exceeds demand.
- Silver proof
- Issued only in collector sets, struck in ninety per cent silver with mirror fields. These carry real value from their metal content and their finish, and they were never in circulation.
- Certified high grade
- Coins graded at the top of the mint-state scale can sell for meaningful sums, but reaching those grades requires a coin that was never touched, and the grading fee exceeds the value of anything less.
Traps specific to this one
Every well-known collectable attracts its own fakes and its own misunderstandings. These are the ones that come up again and again with this item.
- Paying to grade circulation coins
- The grading fee is several times the value of any state quarter from change, whatever grade comes back.
- Believing complete-set valuations
- Folders and maps advertised as complete collections sell for little more than the face value of the coins inside them.
- Mistaking damage for an error
- Post-mint damage, machine doubling and die deterioration are all common and worthless. Genuine varieties in this series are specific and catalogued.
- Confusing silver proofs with clad proofs
- Both were issued in collector sets and look similar. Only the silver ones carry metal value, and the set packaging identifies which is which.
How to read the sold listings
Look specifically at completed sales rather than listings here, because this is a category where optimistic asking prices dominate and almost nothing sells at them. Search for the exact variety name if you believe you have one, rather than for the state, since a state name alone returns thousands of face-value coins. For silver proofs, compare against current silver prices as well as against recent sales, since that is what underpins them.
Estimate yours from a photo
Upload your own coin for an estimate based on what the photos show.
Example estimate
Polaroid SX-70 Land Camera
$190
Usually sells for $120 – $320
Your result appears here.
Common questions
Are state quarters with a D or P mark rare?
No. P (Philadelphia) and D (Denver) were struck in huge numbers for circulation.
How do I tell a silver proof quarter?
It has an S mint mark, mirror-like surfaces and no copper stripe on the edge.
Is a complete state quarter map valuable?
Usually not beyond face value, unless it contains errors or silver proofs.