Figurine value checker
Photograph the figurine and the marks under its base. The estimator identifies the maker, model number and era from the marks, checks for damage, and estimates a selling range. Many figurines sell for less than they cost new, and it says so.
Example estimate
Polaroid SX-70 Land Camera
$190
Usually sells for $120 – $320
Your result appears here.
How to photograph it
Good photos are the biggest single improvement to an estimate. These are the shots that matter most.
- Photograph the figurine from the front and side.
- Close-up the base marks, stamps and incised numbers.
- Look for chips on fingers, noses and edges, and photograph them.
- Mention the original box and papers if you have them.
What decides the price
- Maker and mark
- Hummel trademarks, Lladró logos and Royal Doulton HN numbers date a piece and identify it.
- Early marks
- Earlier trademarks on the same model usually sell for more than later ones.
- Retired and limited pieces
- Retired and limited pieces can sell for more, but popular models were made in large numbers.
- Condition
- Chips, repairs and crazing reduce value sharply; restoration lowers value even when hard to see.
What this market actually looks like
Collectable figurines were one of the biggest categories of the late twentieth century and have been one of the steepest declines. Porcelain and ceramic figurines sold through collector plate clubs and department stores in enormous numbers, often marketed with language about investment and limited editions, and the secondary market for the great majority of them is now close to nothing.
The reason is supply meeting a vanished audience. These were made in the hundreds of thousands, kept carefully in cabinets, and are now being cleared from estates faster than anyone is starting a collection. A figurine that cost a meaningful sum new routinely sells for a small fraction of it, and many do not sell at all.
What survives the decline is early production, scarce models and documented limited runs. For the well-known makers, backstamps changed over the decades and an early mark on a model that was produced only briefly is worth real money while a later mark on the same model is worth very little. The distinction is invisible from the front and obvious underneath.
Damage is treated harshly here because the appeal is decorative and restoration is visible. Figurines have extremities — fingers, flowers, instruments, tails — that chip and break, and a professional repair is detectable under ultraviolet light and is disclosed. A damaged figurine in a declining market is usually unsellable rather than merely discounted.
How condition is judged here
- Photograph the backstamp
- The mark underneath gives maker and, through its design, an approximate period. For the major makers these marks are catalogued and dating a piece from the stamp takes a minute.
- Model and mould numbers
- Incised or printed numbers identify the specific model. Two figurines that look alike may be different models with very different production histories.
- Inspect extremities closely
- Fingers, flowers, hat brims and anything thin are where the damage is. Run a fingertip over them and check under a bright light for glue lines.
- Ultraviolet for restoration
- Overpaint and adhesives fluoresce differently from the original glaze. A cheap UV torch finds repairs that are invisible in ordinary light.
What costs people money
Most of the value lost in this category is lost before the item is listed, by the owner, with good intentions. These are the four that come up most often.
- Relying on the original certificate
- Certificates of authenticity and limited-edition numbering were marketing material. They say nothing about current value and buyers disregard them.
- Expecting the purchase price back
- These were sold at retail with a large margin into a market that no longer exists. Recovering the original cost is not a realistic outcome.
- Shipping without immobilising the piece
- Figurines break in transit at a higher rate than almost anything else. Extremities need individual padding, not just a box of filler.
- Selling a large collection piece by piece
- Listing time and postage risk usually exceed the return. Collections of ordinary figurines move best locally as a lot.
When to bring in a professional
An auction house will tell you quickly and free of charge whether a collection contains anything worth consigning, and for most collections the answer will be a small number of early-marked pieces at most. That is still worth asking, because the early pieces are not the ones that look most impressive. Do not pay for a formal appraisal in this category unless a piece is both early-marked and a model you have confirmed has an active market; the appraisal fee will often exceed the proceeds.
Common questions
Why are Hummels worth less than they used to be?
Demand fell as collectors aged while supply stayed high. Early marks and rare models still sell; common ones often sell for little.
How do I read the mark on the base?
Photograph it clearly. The estimator reads trademarks and numbers and explains what era they point to.
Does the box add value?
Yes, the original box and certificate help, especially for Lladró and limited editions.