Watch value estimator
Upload the dial, the case back and the clasp. The estimator identifies brand, model and likely reference, considers condition and box-and-papers, and gives a pre-owned resale range.
Example estimate
Polaroid SX-70 Land Camera
$190
Usually sells for $120 – $320
Your result appears here.
How to photograph it
Good photos are the biggest single improvement to an estimate. These are the shots that matter most.
- Photograph the dial straight on with the crystal free of reflections.
- Shoot the case back and any engravings or reference numbers.
- Include the clasp, crown and the lugs from the side.
- Mention box, papers and service history in the details box.
What decides the price
- Brand and reference
- Exact reference numbers decide the price. Two similar-looking models can differ by thousands.
- Box and papers
- A full set with original box and warranty card typically adds 10–20% for luxury watches.
- Condition and originality
- Original dial and hands matter. Polished-out case lines and replacement parts lower collector value.
- Working order
- Service history and accurate timekeeping support price. A watch needing service sells for less.
What this market actually looks like
Watch values are driven by the reference number, not the brand, and the gap between references from the same maker is enormous. A steel sports model from a maker with a waiting list can trade above its retail price, while a precious-metal dress watch from the same catalogue sells for a fraction of what it cost new. Any valuation that starts from the brand alone is guessing.
Below the famous names, the market is deep and much softer. Mid-century mechanical watches from makers like Omega, Longines, Tissot and Seiko sell steadily in the low hundreds, with condition of the dial doing most of the pricing. Quartz watches from the 1980s onwards, with a handful of collectible exceptions, are generally worth less than the cost of a service, which is why so many of them sit unsold.
Completeness moves the number more in watches than in almost any other category. The original box, papers, spare links and a dated warranty card can add a meaningful percentage to a modern luxury piece, because they answer the authenticity question before the buyer has to ask it. For vintage watches the equivalent is an unrestored dial and the original crown and bracelet.
How condition is judged here
- Find the reference and serial
- The reference number identifies the exact model and usually sits between the lugs or on the caseback. The serial dates the individual watch. Photograph both: a model name alone covers dozens of variants at different prices.
- Dial originality above all
- A refinished dial can halve the value of a vintage watch even when it looks cleaner than an original. Look for crisp printing, correct font and even ageing; repainted dials often have slightly soft text and perfectly uniform colour.
- Case sharpness
- Over-polishing rounds the sharp bevels between the case sides and lugs. Collectors pay for an unpolished case with honest marks over a buffed one that has lost its original geometry.
- Running is not the same as serviced
- A watch that ticks may still be running dry. A recent service with a receipt is worth real money; 'running when stored' is a disclosure, not a condition grade.
What costs people money
Most of the value lost in this category is lost before the item is listed, by the owner, with good intentions. These are the four that come up most often.
- Polishing before selling
- It feels like presentation and reads as damage. A buffed case is permanent and visible, and it costs more than the shine is worth.
- Pricing from retail
- What the watch cost new has almost no bearing on what it sells for now, in either direction. Only completed sales of the same reference are relevant.
- Ignoring the movement
- Two watches with identical dials can have different calibres and different values. On vintage pieces a replacement movement, or parts from another reference, is a common and expensive surprise.
- Selling a fake in good faith
- High-end counterfeits are convincing in photographs. Selling one, even unknowingly, means a reversed payment and a damaged account, so authenticate before listing anything expensive.
When to bring in a professional
Get an in-person opinion from a watchmaker or specialist dealer whenever the reference is plausibly worth four figures, whenever the dial might be refinished, and before selling anything from a maker that is widely counterfeited. For a single valuable watch, a specialist auction house will give a free estimate and reach buyers who pay authentication premiums. For a drawer of mid-century mechanicals, expect a dealer to take the lot at a wholesale price rather than cherry-pick, and compare that against the time it would take to list them individually.
Common questions
Can the AI tell if my watch is fake?
It flags visible red flags such as wrong fonts or poor finishing, but replicas can be very good. Have any valuable watch checked by a watchmaker or authorized dealer before selling or buying.
Where is the reference number?
On many brands it is engraved between the lugs at 12 o'clock or on the case back. Type it into the details box for a sharper estimate.
Do vintage watches gain value?
Some collectible references have risen, but most fashion and mass-market watches lose most of their value after purchase.