Vintage furniture value estimator
Upload the whole piece and its details: labels, drawer joints, the underside. The estimator suggests style, maker and period, and estimates what similar pieces sell for locally and online.
Example estimate
Polaroid SX-70 Land Camera
$190
Usually sells for $120 – $320
Your result appears here.
How to photograph it
Good photos are the biggest single improvement to an estimate. These are the shots that matter most.
- Photograph the full piece straight on and from a three-quarter angle.
- Open a drawer and photograph the joinery at the corners.
- Look for maker labels or stamps inside drawers, on the back or underneath.
- Type the width, depth and height in the details box.
What decides the price
- Designer and maker
- Known mid-century designers and quality makers sell at strong premiums; unbranded pieces sell on looks and size.
- Materials and construction
- Solid wood and dovetail joints beat veneer over particleboard.
- Style demand
- Mid-century modern sells well; heavy traditional brown furniture often sells for little.
- Condition and size
- Original finish in good shape helps. Apartment-friendly sizes sell faster than very large pieces.
What this market actually looks like
Furniture is the category where logistics decide the price more than quality does. A heavy item that needs two people and a van to move has a buyer pool limited to people within driving distance who happen to want it right now, and that constraint pushes prices down hard regardless of how well the piece is made. The same object in a city with an active design market and in a rural area are effectively two different items.
Mid-century modern remains the strongest segment, and within it, named designers and identifiable manufacturers carry most of the value. Teak and rosewood pieces from the Scandinavian makers, and recognised designs from the major American and Italian firms, sell internationally. Unattributed pieces in a similar style sell locally and for much less, however good they look.
Traditional brown furniture is at the opposite end. Victorian and Edwardian wardrobes, sideboards and dining suites are frequently given away, and dealers often will not collect them free of charge because the cost of transport and storage exceeds what they will fetch. This is a market condition rather than a judgement on the furniture.
Upholstery adds a cost the buyer discounts in advance. Reupholstering a chair properly often costs more than the chair is worth unless the frame is by someone collected, so original fabric in good condition is worth a premium and worn fabric is worth a deduction larger than the repair looks. For anything that will need redoing, expect buyers to subtract the full quoted cost of the work.
How condition is judged here
- Look for a maker's label
- Scandinavian and American makers branded or labelled their work, usually underneath, inside a drawer or on the back. A label moves a piece from generic to attributable and multiplies the price.
- Veneer versus solid
- Check the edges and the end grain. Veneer is not a fault in itself, and much fine furniture is veneered, but lifting, bubbling or chipped veneer is expensive to repair properly.
- Joints and structural soundness
- Rock the piece gently. Loose joints, a racking frame and failed glue blocks are the difference between a piece someone will use and one they will have to pay to fix.
- Original finish and hardware
- An original surface with honest wear is usually preferred to a refinished one, and original handles, castors and keys all count. Replacements should be disclosed.
What costs people money
Most of the value lost in this category is lost before the item is listed, by the owner, with good intentions. These are the four that come up most often.
- Painting solid wood
- Painting a teak or walnut piece destroys most of its value to the buyers who would have paid most for it, and stripping it back is rarely fully successful.
- Pricing for a national audience
- Unless the piece is valuable enough to justify a courier, the market is local. National comparables will keep a listing unsold for months.
- Storing in a garage or damp outbuilding
- Moisture lifts veneer, swells joints and invites woodworm. A season outdoors can turn a sellable piece into firewood.
- Refusing the first reasonable offer
- Large furniture gets harder to sell the longer it sits, and storage is not free. The first serious buyer with a van is often the best outcome available.
When to bring in a professional
A specialist dealer in twentieth-century design is worth contacting whenever a piece carries a maker's label or looks like a known design, because they reach buyers who will pay for shipping and they can confirm attribution. For traditional furniture, the realistic choices are a local auction with modest expectations or a house-clearance service, and an appraisal will not change that. Before paying for restoration of any kind, get the restorer's quote and a dealer's estimate of the finished value side by side; frequently the two numbers make the decision for you.
Common questions
Is my dresser mid-century modern?
Clean lines, tapered legs, teak or walnut veneers and minimal hardware are signs. Look for labels from known makers in the top drawer.
Why do local prices differ so much?
Furniture is expensive to ship, so prices depend on local demand. City markets often pay more than rural ones.
Should I refinish before selling?
Usually no. Collectors prefer original finish, and a poor refinish can lower value.